This does not cover Day 1 which has already been posted.
Day 2. Lille to Brussels
130Km, 8.5 hours, 913m trip ascent, 1 Windmill !
Leaving Lille on a Sunday was a unique experience, as indeed was the whole day, with a host of surprises. Thoroughfares in Lille were closed to traffic making way for street flea markets and the cycle paths next to the canals were crowded with runners, walkers, and of course, riders. The canals out of this huge city were not yet signed with Eurovelo 5 but I had already plotted my route using the planned markings on OpenStreet Cycle Map with my Garmin GPS.
Progress along the canals was quick and the paths flat, I was not aware of crossing into Belgium and only when I saw signs in Dutch, as well as in French, realised I had entered the region of Wallonia. It seems every village and town had bike shops, and some roads, had permanent drawings of past Tour de France champions. Everywhere it is a cycling- centered country, a complex maze of cycle paths, all numbered with signs, and directions, I looked out for the Flanders Cycle Route.
The next surprise were hills -The Flemish Ardennes - a forested area reaching 130 meters in height. What a contrast from the canal and river paths!
I came across Kluisberg, a village nestling at the foot of the hills. Big excitement in the village! A Red Bull Soapbox Race. Never heard of soap box (or gravity) racing ! Crowds waiting for the mad descent of the big hill of the main street. I pushed my bike up to the start, locals were dressed as pirates and devils (of course!) and then continued escaping into the Kluisbos Forest. I stopped at a pub for a coffee and chocolate cake on the summit, then an off-road descent on the forest track.
Riding on famed cobblestoned roads (suspension very useful in ironing out the vibrations!), passing windmills, I rode into the town of Geraardsbergen. Another surprise awaited me, an ethnic food fair, and there I welcomed some Syrian Baklawah Pastry and Jallab (fruit syrup), the perfect energy food !! There was also a Palestinian food stall. Belgian society obviously is expressing a multicultural response to refugees and immigrants.
This was the longest planned day, to reach Brussels , but it worked out, due to the good cycle paths and the sunny weather also helped. I got to the Ibis Hotel as dark was falling, and I decided to eat in a nearby Kebab Café, so continuing the Middle East theme of the day.
Day 3.Brussels to Namur
83Kms, 8.5 hours, 781m trip ascent,
Leaving Brussels (through the suburb of Engeland!) was spent riding in the parks and forests that surround the southern metropolitan area of the capital. I entered the Sonian Forest and rode the cycle paths of this immense forest of Beeches and Oaks, some of the trees 200 years old. Exiting the southern part of the forest I rode in the impressive grounds of the Solvay Castle. Here I found an excellent place on a bench next to a lake and had a picnic (the remains of my Ibis breakfast!).
Continuing on the Eurovelo 5 route, I now noticed that my route took me past Waterloo, the site of the 1815 battle where Napoleon was defeated. Pity I was oblivious of this at the time and could have made a diversion, I was not to be defeated on my aim to reach Basel! The route is well signed, and I progressed on paths through more forests, alongside fields, and villages. The final 10km to my destination, Namur, was on an amazing cycle path that had been built on a disused railway track. This conveyed me on a gentle descent to the Meuse Valley, on bridges,through cuttings and tunnels, eventually ending at the train station at Namur. Note the Eurovelo 5 cycle signs !
Namur rests on the confluence of two rivers; the Sambre and Meuse, the city is dominated by a high citadel, and the fortifications extend down to the riverside. The cycle path follows the river under arches and bridges to the hostel where I had booked in for the night. The hostel in Namur can be thoroughly recommended and ticks all the boxes for a weary cyclist: safe bike storage, nice room with river view, cheap beer, and on request, an evening meal of pasta !
Day4: Namur to Bastogne
126Km, 11.5 hours, 1907m trip ascent, Max Alt 554 m
The day was going to be a tough day of hill climbing and the hearty hostel breakfast was appreciated. Leaving the hostel was a very pleasant ride along the banks of the Meuse and as I crossed the river on a metal footbridge (see below), I had a potential disaster, when a bike bag jumped off the handlebars and somehow did not end with a splash into the rushing waters below. Very fortunate!
On the other side of the river my real work began with an immediate climb on a twisting road, to a plateau that reached to a dizzying height of over 500 meters, this was the Ardennes, a region of successive ridges capped with extensive forests. Belgium was supposed to be flat! If I saw trees ahead of me, that was bound to mean a climb to a ridge top , I was mentally prepared. Thankfully, there are two sides (usually!) to every ridge, and that meant a graceful descent that could last up to a couple of kilometres on cycle paths that stretched into gaps between the trees and fields. It was rare to pass any other cyclists in this isolated area, encountering the farmers on a tractor or a couple of cows, was a memorable event! I was vaguely aware that I was cycling through an area with some of the heaviest fighting during World War ll, particularly the Battle of the Bulge in 1944/45.
The ride was physically demanding with very little opportunity to buy food in the small villages, I had to rely on my saved breakfast croissant, also water replenishment was problematic. It didn't help that at one point that I mis-navigated in a huge forest and had to plot a 10km detour to return to the my planned route. The kindness of villagers in filling my water bottle was much appreciated!
My stop-over in Bastogne (524') was eventually reached by a climb to its lofty position. My next objective was to find my B&B, 'Fidelis', which was not easy. There were no signs indicating its whereabouts, honourable name or address, nor could it be found on my map, I was worried this was a bogus booking! Eventually a local couple on a residential estate helped searching for the house on their car Satnav and I followed them to the address, lo and behold, this unmarked hostelry actually exists, and there was actually a real person to answer the door. The mystery landlady was most sympathetic, and prepared for me an after-ride pasta - gratis!
Day 5: Bastogne to Schengen (Luxembourg)
130km, 11hours, 1142 meters trip ascent
Fidelis B&B was, in a way, true to the Latin meaning of being faithful or loyal to not providing breakfast, as set out in their terms of booking (which escaped me) - perhaps they should be called 'Fidelis Bed Only' - not to matter, I did get at least a coffee in the morning, and after setting out on the ride, I stopped at a village boulangerie for a croissant.
Bastogne was connected to Martelange, on the Luxembourg border, by a disused train track now a scenic cycle path, which after heavy overnight rain, was muddy in places, but passable, however, rider, bike and bags were changing colour for the worse!
I passed into Luxembourg imperceptibly (no border markings!) and I was then riding on a system of high standard cycle paths - Pistes Cyclable -PC18 - the Jangeli old train route, and then PC17 - 'Piste cyclable de l’Ouest'. Everything was so well organised and signed, with stopping places at restored stations, ideal to take a break, some with a drinking water (this reminded me of the restored station in the Jezreel Valley!). The Duchy is very clean and tidy, I actually encountered, for the first and only time, a motorised path sweeper, removing leaves and branches after heavy rain (I have the photo to prove it!).
I entered Luxembourg City, a memorable experience, riding in the rain through the narrow streets, on cobbled surfaces, to the medieval ramparts of the fortress. There I had the dramatic viewpoint to the old town nestling in a gorge, 200 meters below. It was further dramatic, carrying my bike down some wet steps, and then descending on a road of slippery stones, to the bridge over a river. I joined the cycle path that led out of the city, winding through the gorge. A great path, that crossed the river on suspended walk-ways, and then through wooded areas, that sheltered me from the rain.
Day 6: Schengen to Hambach
97kms, 8.5 hours, 726m trip ascent, 3 countries
 |
| Riverside mural near Sarreguemines, France |
Schengen stands on the Moselle, and by riding over a bridge from one side of the river to the other, there I was, in Germany. After pedalling a couple of kilometres south, I should have noticed that the road changed names from' Mosel Strasse' to 'Rue Bellevue', a firm hint that I was back in France, in the northern part of the Alsace region. The villages still had German names (Apach, Ritzing, Launstroff.....) attesting to the disputed history of the region; the cycle paths wove between the vineyards on an undulating plateau. I was trying to outpace the threatening grey clouds that were chasing me. Before I knew it, I crossed the border again into Germany, descending to the valley of the Saar River, and there I joined Eurovelo 5 path that hugged the banks of the river.
Day 7: Hambach to Strasbourg
100km, 8 hours, 215m trip ascent
 |
| A Mural on the path to Strasbourg ! |
This was a very good day, a Fairy Tale Ride - the scenery, informative signing, and a cycle path that excelled in enjoyment, design and setting - The Rhine-Marne Canal Cycle Route.
I joined this path and it took me all the way to Strasbourg, without a boat!
Some sections of the original canal (built 1853) was in fact a 'ghost canal' where it had fallen into disuse, a 20km overgrown lily pond was now a tourist project for cyclists and hikers. This attraction, known locally as 'Valley of the Lock Keepers', was perhaps the jewel in the crown of the Eurovelo 5 route, with metal suspended gangways above the drained canal, passing over the rusting, rotting,locks, which finished their functions many years ago, a tribute to a past age of industry and transport.. Each lock had a keeper's cottage, many dilapidated, but some had been restored into trendy residences.
The old canal re-joined the modern waterway and thankfully at last I passed through |Lutzelbourg, a living village with a patisserie, and treated myself to café au lait and a slice of apfelstrudel - an indication of the dual cuisine character of the area. One of the disadvantages of riding just cycle paths, the rider is isolated from establishments offering refreshment or satisfying my caffeine crave, there are no gas or service stations !
The barges on the canal were clearly leisure vessels, usually piloted by, bearded budding 'captains', retirees, often with a pair of electric bikes lashed to the boat. My usual average 15km/hour cycling speed,( human power generation!), outpaced the stately knots generated by the barges.
The canal passed through the picturesque town of Saverne, and on to my destination Strasbourg, where the 'Canal de la Marne au Rhin' terminates at a final lock next to the Rhine, but more of this over my final two days.
Day 8: Strasbourg to Colmar
105km, 10 hours, 582m trip ascent.
The previous evening, in desperation, was spent dining at a Strasbourg MacDonald's, situated conveniently next to my budget hotel. Interesting experience - It was fully automated, no human cashiers, huge panel touch screens for ordering, and as far as I could tell, my Chicken McNuggets arrived by robot 'deliverers'. This is the future, and I don't like it, so back to the cycling.
I continued in the Bas-Rhin Department, following the picturesue Canal de la Bruche westwards. Very good examples of Alsatian villages with typical timber-framed architecture. On turning south I passed through the town of Molsheim , the home of famous Bugati Automobiles, who now manufacture a bike, that has the 'reasonable' asking price of just 39K(GBP) - it's supposed to be the lightest in the world at under 5kg - not like mine!
The vineyards were situated in the higher areas, grape tasting of different vintages was possible to sample, as I passed through - good energy supplements! The rain showers rinsed any chemicals from the vine. I had my first glass of local wine at a Chinese Restaurant in Colmar!
This was my final day, Basel was within reach, just the small matter of another 100km to consider! I was excited (and worried over human or technical mishaps) at the challenge of reaching the airport intact, and in time. The plan was to leave EuroVelo 5 and join part of EuroVelo 15, the long distance cycle route following the Rhine from Andermat in Switzerland to the North Sea - perhaps my next project !
It was interesting to cycle through Colmar on a Sunday, with roads closed to traffic, it seems the whole town was taking part in a 'fun-run' - I pedalled in time to the music being directed from every corner. Heading for the Rhine, it was flat and forested, and near the river I entered Neuf -Brisach one of the most uniquely designed fortified towns in France. It was octagonal star-shaped, with a grid layout of streets (Napoleonic barracks), with a large central square (original parade ground?), that today had fountains decorated with hanging bicycles. Also for some reason, dispensing machines for contraceptives, were sited outside the shops, perhaps its garrison background ?!! Why was there an elephant guarding the fort?
I crossed the Rhine into Germany and joined the EuroVelo15 path next to the river. The wide bridge over this huge flowing expanse of water was decorated with the flags of all EEC Nations, pleased about that ! Cycling this path, was mainly unpaved, muddy in places, and then closed altogether due to flooding, so I crossed back over to the French side. This was much better riding following the Canal du Huningue path, which took me straight to Saint Louis, next to Basel Airport. I chanced upon a wild-life photography exhibition, running along the length of the canal, part of the annual Festival of Animal and Nature Photography, plenty of real wildlife too - loved the ducks! This was a fitting climax to my journey!
It only remained for me to find Basel Airport from the Swiss side of the border, which was easier said than done, by cycle paths ! I nearly got arrested by illegally riding on to the motorway border crossing - my map was not detailed enough! The policeman, after checking I was not an illegal, directed me to the correct Swiss road to the airport. I think he must have seen similarly confused, disorientated cycle-tourists! The cycle path took me directly to the Terminal 3 Departures, a fitting way to finish my tour, intact, and un-busted.
Thanks for reading this account, if you got this far, without (non cycling) fatigue.
Total 1000.18 km, 9 days riding, and I enjoyed this final stat - 0 punctures ! My bike is happy in Departures, let's give it pat on the saddle!
I dropped back to the canal (not literally!) which was situated next to the hotel and continued my way around Strasbourg until I saw The Rhine., I continued following the Eurovelo5 Route that took me past the seat of the European Parliament, this glass palace that reflected well in the waters of the canal, but, perhaps not reflecting the view of many Europeans! Strasbourg is obviously also a cycling city, with paths, segregation from vehicular traffic, a pleasure to be part of the cycling culture. Pity I didn't have time to explore this fascinating city further, I had another 100k+ to Colmar.
Day 9: Colmar to Basel
103k, 10 hours, 228m trip ascent
This was my final day, Basel was within reach, just the small matter of another 100km to consider! I was excited (and worried over human or technical mishaps) at the challenge of reaching the airport intact, and in time. The plan was to leave EuroVelo 5 and join part of EuroVelo 15, the long distance cycle route following the Rhine from Andermat in Switzerland to the North Sea - perhaps my next project !
It only remained for me to find Basel Airport from the Swiss side of the border, which was easier said than done, by cycle paths ! I nearly got arrested by illegally riding on to the motorway border crossing - my map was not detailed enough! The policeman, after checking I was not an illegal, directed me to the correct Swiss road to the airport. I think he must have seen similarly confused, disorientated cycle-tourists! The cycle path took me directly to the Terminal 3 Departures, a fitting way to finish my tour, intact, and un-busted.
Thanks for reading this account, if you got this far, without (non cycling) fatigue.
Total 1000.18 km, 9 days riding, and I enjoyed this final stat - 0 punctures ! My bike is happy in Departures, let's give it pat on the saddle!
